The Complete Starlink Mini Setup Guide for Australian Travellers (2026)
Everything you need to know about setting up your Starlink Mini for caravans, 4WDs, and remote travel across Australia.
So you've taken delivery of your Starlink Mini. You've plugged it in at home using the supplied 240V adapter and 15-metre cable, connected to the WiFi, and thought "this is brilliant."
But now you want to take it on the road. You're heading bush, towing the van, or setting up at a remote worksite—and you've noticed there are no 12V accessories in the box.
This guide walks you through everything: from choosing a mounting solution to powering your Mini off-grid, avoiding common mistakes, and getting the most out of Australia's best portable satellite internet.
We've helped hundreds of Australians get their Starlink Mini setups sorted, and we've seen every configuration imaginable—from caravanners doing the big lap to contractors running remote sites in the Pilbara. Here's what actually works.
Want to go deeper? Our guide Everything the Official Manual Doesn't Tell You covers 12V power setups, voltage drop fixes, troubleshooting, and permanent mounting options.
What's in the Box (And What's Missing)
Your Starlink Mini kit includes:
- The Starlink Mini dish (with built-in WiFi 5 router)
- 15-metre AC power cable
- 240V power adapter
- Kickstand for ground mounting
- Pole mount adapter
- Quick start guide
What's not included:
- 12V power cables
- Vehicle mounting solutions
- Protective covers
- Portable power options
Why No 12V Accessories?
When the Starlink Mini launched in Australia in August 2024, it was initially limited to around 16km/h (10mph) for in-motion use—it wasn't designed for full highway-speed travel. Not long after launch, Starlink expanded this to 160km/h (100mph), opening up proper mobile use.
Given the Mini's built-in flexibility (12-48V input range) and the huge variety of use cases—caravans, 4WDs, trucks, boats, power stations—there was never going to be a one-size-fits-all 12V solution. Starlink eventually released their own 12V car adapter in early 2025, but by then the aftermarket had already stepped up with options for every setup imaginable.
The good news? Once you've got the right gear for your situation, setup takes minutes.
Step 1: Download the Starlink App
Before you do anything else, download the Starlink app on your phone (iOS or Android). You'll need it to:
- Activate your Starlink account
- Check for obstructions before mounting
- Configure WiFi settings
- Monitor performance and troubleshoot issues
Pro tip: The app will ask for your Starlink account password (not your WiFi password) to access some functions. You'll receive a verification code via email. This trips up a lot of people—your Starlink account login is completely separate from the WiFi network name (SSID) and password you'll set up later. For a full explanation of this common confusion, see our guide on Starlink Account Password vs WiFi Password.
Step 2: Choose Your Mounting Solution
How you mount your Starlink Mini depends on how you travel. Here are the main options:
Ground/Tripod Setup (Basic)
The included kickstand works fine for stationary use on flat ground. It's what most people start with at home. But for travel, it's limiting—you need to find a clear spot, the Mini sits low (more obstructions), and it's not secure in wind.
Magnetic Roof Mount (Most Popular)
This is what most caravanners and 4WD owners end up with. A quality magnetic mount lets you:
- Set up in seconds without tools
- Get the Mini high for better sky visibility
- Keep it secure at highway speeds
- Remove it easily for storage
- Move it between vehicles—take your Mini from the caravan to the 4WD for day trips
That last point is huge. If you've got your Mini set up on the caravan and want to do a day trip, you can take it with you—full internet and phone calls wherever you go.
The key is magnetic strength. Cheap mounts with weak magnets become expensive mistakes when your Starlink Mini parts company with your vehicle at 100km/h.
Our Starlink Mini Mount Kits use 72kg total magnetic pull force—that's serious hold on corrugated roads, highway driving, and everything in between. They're manufactured in Southern NSW and come in 10 colours if you want something that matches your rig.
Got a fibreglass or aluminium roof? Magnets won't stick to these surfaces. We've got you covered with our adhesive mounting disc—a permanent solution that gives you the same secure mounting without needing a steel surface.
Permanent Roof Mount
Some owners prefer a fixed installation, especially for trade vehicles or caravans that always have the Mini fitted. This typically involves drilling and proper waterproofing. If you're not confident with this, get an auto electrician to do it properly.
We're compiling a list of recommended auto electricians and installers across Australia—if you need a referral in your area, get in touch.
Roof Rack Integration
If you've got a roof rack or roof platform, you can adapt most magnetic mounts to sit on the flat bars. Just ensure nothing metal is blocking the dish's view of the sky.
For detailed vehicle mounting advice including cable routing and specific setups for caravans, utes, and 4WDs, see our Vehicle Mounting Guide.
Step 3: Check for Obstructions
Before you commit to a mounting location, use the Starlink app's obstruction check tool.
Open the app, go to the alignment tool, and use your phone's camera to scan the sky from where you plan to mount the Mini. The app shows you what the dish will "see" and highlights any problem areas.
Quick note on how the Mini works: Your Starlink Mini connects to multiple satellites at any given time—it's not just talking to one satellite overhead. This is why having a clear view of as much sky as possible matters. The more satellites the Mini can see, the better your connection.
What can cause obstructions:
- Trees (especially tall gums)
- Buildings and structures
- Some awnings and annexes (though the signal gets through many of them)
- Other rooftop equipment positioned in front of the dish
Even small obstructions can cause brief dropouts as satellites pass behind them. The Mini is remarkably good at maintaining connection, but a clear view of the sky is always better.
After a few hours of operation, the app's obstruction map will show red areas where objects have blocked the signal. Use this to fine-tune your mounting position.
Step 4: Sort Your 12V Power
This is where some people come unstuck. The Starlink Mini accepts 12-48V DC power, which sounds simple enough. But there's a catch: voltage drop.
For a deep dive into every 12V option—direct cables, step-up converters, and power tool battery adapters—see our Complete Guide to Running Starlink Mini on 12V.
Understanding the Problem
Your Starlink Mini needs a steady 12V+ at the dish to work reliably—and 12V is at the lower end of its acceptable range. The longer your cable run, the more voltage you lose along the way. A battery showing 12.6V might only deliver under 12V at the end of a longer cable—and that's not always enough for reliable operation.
Starlink Mini power specs:
- Input: 12-48V DC
- Average consumption: 20-25W (after initial startup and settling)
- Peak consumption: Up to 60W (during startup and firmware updates)
The Cigarette Lighter Question
Can you run a Starlink Mini from a cigarette lighter socket? Yes—and for most people with a decent vehicle and quality cable, it works just fine.
We've sold hundreds of 12V cables with cigarette lighter connections, and the vast majority work without issues. Here's the key insight: if you're driving from point A to point B with the vehicle running, you're going to have enough voltage—cigarette lighter setups work great in this scenario.
The main issue is when the vehicle is not running. That's when voltage can drop and cause problems. If you're planning to run your Mini while camped with the engine off, that's when you need to think about your power setup more carefully.
If you're having issues with a cigarette lighter setup, try a different socket or check the connections before assuming you need a different solution.
Anderson Plugs—The Preferred Method
Anderson plugs are a popular connection method in Australia, and for good reason. They provide a clean, secure, and reliable connection to your auxiliary battery system. If you're doing any kind of semi-permanent 12V setup, this is the preferred way to go.
The Voltage Booster Option
A DC-DC step-up converter (voltage booster) takes your 12V input and delivers a higher voltage—typically anywhere from 24V up to 48V—to the Mini. This eliminates voltage drop issues and gives your Starlink Mini headroom to perform.
Voltage boosters are available in several configurations: cigarette lighter plug, Anderson plug, and direct-to-battery—so you can choose what suits your setup.
When to consider a voltage booster:
- Cable runs longer than 5 metres
- If you're experiencing dropouts on 12V and suspect voltage issues
- Older vehicles or auxiliary setups with marginal voltage
- Running the Mini for extended periods with the vehicle off
When you probably don't need one:
- Quality cable under 5 metres
- Direct connection to a battery maintaining 12.4V+
- Modern vehicle with solid electrical system
- Primarily using while driving (vehicle running)
A Note on Cables
Cable quality matters for longer runs. Thinner cables mean more voltage drop. The reality is that most 12V Starlink cables on the market are 18 AWG, which works fine for typical setups. You'll rarely find heavier gauge options at retail—14, 12, or 10 AWG cables are uncommon—and for most people, you don't need them.
If you're doing a very long run (over 5m) and want to minimise voltage drop, a voltage booster is usually the easier solution than hunting for heavy-gauge cables.
Our 12V power cables are built to work reliably with the Starlink Mini. For help choosing between options, see our Cable Selection Guide.
Power Source Options
Cigarette lighter: Works well for most people, especially while driving. Quick and easy—just ensure good connections.
Anderson plug: Clean and secure connection. The preferred method for most semi-permanent setups in Australia.
Direct battery connection: Wired directly to your auxiliary battery with appropriate fusing. A solid option for permanent installations.
Portable power station: Great for flexibility. Just check it can deliver sustained power (not just peak ratings). Expect roughly 3 hours per 100Wh of capacity.
Power tool battery adapters: A popular option for tradies, farmers, and anyone who already has power tool batteries lying around. These adapters let you run your Mini from a Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, or similar battery. Runtime depends on the amp-hour rating of your battery—a typical 5Ah battery will give you around 3 hours, while larger capacity batteries like 8Ah or 12Ah will run considerably longer. If you've got a few batteries on rotation, this can be a very practical solution. See our Milwaukee Adapter Guide for a detailed comparison of options.
This is especially handy when your vehicle is parked somewhere with overhead obstructions—like in the shed—but you need internet to get started on work. Grab the Mini, slap a power tool battery on it, and set it up outside with a clear view of the sky while your vehicle stays put.
Step 5: Physical Installation
With your mounting and power sorted, actual installation is straightforward:
- Place the Starlink Mini in your mount
- Position the mount on your vehicle roof (magnetic) or chosen location
- Run your power cable safely—away from hot exhaust components, moving parts, and pinch points
- Connect power and watch for the blue LED light on the back of the dish (bottom left corner)
- Open the Starlink app and ensure you're connected to the Starlink WiFi network
- Wait for connection—the app will show status
The Mini uses phased array technology to electronically "steer" its connection to satellites—there are no motors physically moving the dish. Just position it with a clear view of the sky and the tech handles the rest.
Don't stress about perfect alignment. The Starlink app may nag you about alignment not being optimal—you can largely ignore this. The phased array technology is remarkably good at compensating. Yes, perfect alignment might give you slightly better speeds, but in practice the difference is minimal and you won't notice it. If it's working, it's working.
First connection can take a while. On first use, allow up to 30 minutes for the Mini to download firmware updates and establish its position. Don't panic if it takes longer than expected—this is normal.
Haven't used your Mini for a while? It may need to download updates before it's fully operational. Give it time to sort itself out.
Good news: Data used for firmware updates doesn't count against your data allocation.
Step 6: Configure Your WiFi
By default, your Starlink Mini broadcasts a network called "STARLINK" with no password. You'll want to change this.
In the Starlink app:
- Go to Settings → Router → Networks
- Set a network name you'll recognise
- Set a strong password
- Consider whether to split 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands (they're combined by default—you need to split them manually if you want separate networks)
2.4GHz vs 5GHz: The 5GHz band is faster but has shorter range. The 2.4GHz band reaches further but maxes out around 50Mbps. If you're having speed issues, check which band your device is connected to.
For a detailed walkthrough on changing your password and setting up a guest network, see our guide: How to Change Your Starlink Mini Wi-Fi Password.
Step 7: Protect Your Investment
Your Starlink Mini is a precision piece of electronics sitting on top of your vehicle, exposed to everything Australia throws at it: hail, stones, branches on tight tracks, and the occasional low-hanging branch.
A protective cover makes sense for anyone who's serious about their setup. Look for:
- Polycarbonate construction (not acrylic/Perspex—it shatters on impact)
- Adequate thickness (4.5mm minimum for real protection)
- Air gap for thermal management (the Mini gets warm and needs airflow)
Our Dishy Armour covers use 4.5-6mm polycarbonate with a 10mm air gap—designed specifically for Australian conditions. For help deciding between options, see our guide on Protective Cases vs Covers.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
"No Signal" or "Searching"
- Check for obstructions using the app
- Verify power supply is adequate (12V+ at the dish)—if you have a cable with a voltage display, check what's actually getting through
- Try a different location with clearer sky view
- Power cycle the Mini (disconnect power for 30 seconds)
We stock cables with built-in voltage displays that make troubleshooting much easier—you can see exactly what voltage is reaching your Mini.
Slow Speeds
- Run a speed test in the app (warning: uses up to 500MB of data)
- Check if you're connected to 2.4GHz instead of 5GHz
- Move closer to the dish if using WiFi at distance
- Check the obstruction map for issues
Random Dropouts
- Often power-related—check voltage at the dish
- Could be intermittent obstructions (trees moving in wind)
- Check all cable connections are secure
- Some cigarette lighter cables have a built-in fuse—check that as well as your vehicle's fuses
- To isolate the issue, try running on 240V with the supplied adapter and cable
WiFi Keeps Disconnecting
- Ensure you're not at the edge of WiFi range
- For phone calls over WiFi, try enabling WiFi calling in your phone settings
- Check for interference from other devices
iPhone users: Your phone should automatically prefer WiFi for calls when connected, but this doesn't always work reliably in practice. There's an automation workaround that detects when your Starlink network is available and automatically adjusts your phone settings—no manual switching to airplane mode required. When you leave range, it switches you back to mobile automatically. See our iPhone Automation Guide for the full walkthrough.
Mini Won't Power On
- Verify power source is working
- Check cable connections at both ends
- Try a different power source to isolate the issue
- Check fuses in your power circuit (and any built-in fuse in your cable)
For more detailed troubleshooting including the SMS reset trick for activation issues, see our Starlink Mini Won't Activate guide.
Factory Reset
If things have gone properly sideways:
- Use the app: Settings → Router → Factory Reset
- Or use the physical reset button on the back of the dish
Warning: This is the nuclear option. A factory reset wipes everything—you'll need to set up your WiFi name, password, and all other settings again from scratch. Only do this if you've tried everything else.
Tips from the Community
These insights come from the Starlink Mini Users Australia Facebook community—31,000+ members who've collectively sorted out just about every setup scenario you can imagine.
Always carry a spare cable for remote areas. If you're heading somewhere truly remote—think the Canning Stock Route or western Queensland—having a backup could save your trip. My recommendation? Keep a cheap 12V cigarette lighter cable as a spare, regardless of what your main setup uses. They're affordable, compact, and just about everyone can use one in a pinch. There are no auto electricians in the middle of the Tanami.
Mind your data on speed tests. Each speed test can chew through 100MB to 1GB of data. If you're on the 100GB Roam plan or Mobile Priority, only run tests when you're actually troubleshooting an issue—not just to see what numbers you can hit.
Anderson plugs are the preferred connection method. If you're doing any kind of semi-permanent setup, an Anderson plug connection to your auxiliary battery is the cleanest solution. That said, cigarette lighter setups work fine for most people—especially while driving. Don't feel you need to rewire everything if your current setup is working.
Expect three hours per 100Wh from a power station. The Mini draws about 20-25W in average use, and portable power stations run at roughly 80% efficiency. Do the maths before you head off—a 300Wh unit gives you around 9-10 hours of connectivity.
Check if your vehicle kills power when the key's out. Many vehicles switch off the cigarette lighter circuit when the ignition is off. Not ideal if you want to run your Mini overnight at camp. Test yours before you assume it'll work.
Want to avoid the most common pitfalls? See our guide on 7 Mistakes Every Caravan Traveller Makes.
Ready to Hit the Road
Getting your Starlink Mini sorted for travel isn't complicated—it just requires the right gear and a bit of planning. Sort your mounting, get your power right, and protect your investment from the elements.
Whether you're working the paddock, running a remote site, or heading bush for the weekend, reliable internet changes everything. No more hunting for phone signal or driving to the nearest town to check emails.
We're here to help if you need us. Our mount kits, 12V cables, and protective covers are designed specifically for Australian conditions—and backed by hundreds of verified Australian customers who've put them to work across this country.
Any questions? Get in touch—we love talking about this stuff.