Starlink Mini Wireless Remote Switch - Inline Plug and Play

Starlink Mini Wireless Remote Switch - Inline Plug and Play

Switch your Starlink Mini on and off from the cab, the camper, or your camp chair. It plugs into the DC line you already have. No wiring, no tools, both remotes paired out of the box.

Which version? Count the pieces.

This switch comes in two versions. Look at what powers your dish right now, and count how many pieces it is. That is the whole test.

TWO PIECES - a converter with a socket on it, and a separate cable you plug into that socket.
Order Female output to Starlink Mini.
That is the 20V Compact, the 2-in-1 30V Car Adapter, the 24V Step-Up with Switch, both 36V transformers, and the 30V Cig Lighter Power Supply.

ONE PIECE - a converter with its own cable built in, running straight to the dish. No socket anywhere on it.
Order Male output to Starlink Mini.
That is the 30V Cigarette Lighter 3m, and the 30V Anderson 3m, 5m and 7m.

Still not sure? Send us a photo of your power setup and we will tell you which one you need. And if you do order the wrong one, nothing gets damaged. It simply will not join up. Get in touch and we will swap it.

How it goes in

The switch sits in your DC line between your power supply and your dish. You unplug one join, put the switch in, and plug it back up. Nothing is cut, spliced or wired, and it takes about ten seconds.

Both versions are marked INPUT and OUTPUT on the pod. Power side to INPUT, dish side to OUTPUT.

Key Features

True Plug and Play
No wiring, no relays, no installation. It goes inline on the DC cable you already use. Plug in, press the remote, done. (Prefer a permanently wired setup? That is our wired Wireless Remote Control Switch, compared below.)

Two Pre-Paired Remotes, Batteries You Can Replace
Both remotes work out of the box. No pairing procedure, no learning buttons. Keep one in the cab and one in the van, or a spare in the glovebox. They run on standard CR2032 button cells that you change yourself, so a flat remote is a two dollar fix from any servo or supermarket, not a new unit.

Stop Idle Power Drain
The Starlink Mini keeps drawing power whenever it is plugged in, typically 16 to 20W and more in poor weather. Switching it off remotely protects your battery overnight, and you can flick it back on in the morning without leaving bed.

Specifications

Remotes: 2, pre-paired | Wireless: 433MHz RF | Remote battery: CR2032, user-replaceable | Install: Inline, no wiring | Weight: 60g with both remotes | Designed for the Starlink Mini DC power line

Inline Remote vs Wired Remote Kit - Which One?

The Inline Plug and Play (this product) is for anyone running the standard Starlink DC line, OEM supply or one of our step-up converters, who wants remote control with zero installation. The wired Wireless Remote Control Switch ($29.95) is a 30A relay kit that wires into any 12V circuit, the better pick for permanent installs, custom switchboards, or switching other gear alongside Starlink. Both use 433MHz RF remotes.

Common Questions

Q: I have a converter and a separate cable. Does it matter which version I get?
A: Not as much as you might think. With two pieces there are two joins you could break into, so both versions will physically fit somewhere in your line. Female output is the one we recommend, because it goes in at the converter where you can reach it. Male output would sit down at the dish end instead.

Q: What happens if I order the wrong one?
A: It simply will not join up, so nothing gets damaged. Get in touch and we will swap it.

Q: Is it directional?
A: Yes, and both versions are marked. Power side goes to INPUT, dish side to OUTPUT. Connected backwards the unit will still pass power to the dish, but the remote will not switch it off, so if that happens just turn it around.

Q: Do I need to pair the remotes?
A: No. Both remotes come pre-paired and work straight out of the box. Press once for on, press again for off.

Q: What battery do the remotes use?
A: A standard CR2032 button cell, and you can replace it yourself. They are sold everywhere, so a flat remote never means a flat setup.

Q: Why are there two versions at all?
A: Because our power range splits into two shapes. Converters that finish in a socket need the switch one way round; all-in-one converters with a built-in cable need it the other. Until the second version existed, anyone running an Anderson or an all-in-one could not fit a remote switch at all.

Whether you are working the paddock, set up at camp, or running a remote site, control your Starlink Mini without leaving your seat.

Not sure which cable you need? Check out our Cable Selection Guide or download the Quick Reference PDF.